Chef Christopher Kearse talks French-inspired fare for FringeFEAST

As Philadelphia hits the middle of autumn, executive chefs are knee-deep in fall flavors and seasonal events. Few are as busy doing both than Christopher Kearse—owner and executive chef at Old City’s Forsythia—who joins Jarbeaux of Bearded Ladies Cabaret and fellow chefs Kenny Bush (La Peg), Jezabel Careaga (Jezabel’s Café) Nate Johnson and Cory Reuss (Garces’ hot spots), Grant Lloyd (Bistro La Minette) and Tova duPlessis (Essen Bakery) for the inaugural FringeFEAST.

FringeFEAST is a multi-course meal that will take place on Tuesday, Oct. 18, at La Peg at FringeArts, 140 N. Columbus Blvd.

Kearse sat down with Metro to discuss preparing his curation of French-inspired fare for FringeFEAST.

Tell us a little bit about crafting the FringeFEAST menu and how it came about while working with other chefs you know.

I tend to always handle the fish course or dessert course with events such as FringeFEAST. For me it’s where I can really get creative and give guests something different than what we normally do at Forsythia. My sous chef used to work at La Peg and is friends with Chef Kenny Bush. Working with the other chefs, we talk about the game plan and execution, and then work within our means for service. My dish for FringeFEAST is Octopus and Bone Marrow with yuzu vinegar, pickled honeynut squash and pistachio roasted in a scallop shell. I figured octopus is something most people don’t cook at home and isn’t often found on menus.

Forsythia just celebrated 3 years, with a majority of its time being during a pandemic and rebuilding after a massive fire just doors from you. How would you say that you and your crew not only managed, but thrived, and had fun doing so with you FrenchAF disco dance-and-dine parties?

We really took the shut down as a time to regroup and reset as much as we could. We found what was working for us and what wasn’t — and it kind of let us re-write the rules a little bit. It forced us to think about what we wanted to be and become, not just for food and drink wise — but Forsythia’s vibe and culture too.

What flavors are you thinking about for autumn-into-winter at Forsythia?

I am on sassafras kick right now. We get it from Penn Herb and Company on 2nd and Green. I pass it every day on my way to the City Fitness gym right there. I’ve been exploring some fun vinegars as all of the rich fall winter foods always benefit from some acid in a dish. We put a dry aging duck on the menu about two months ago, and the gamey, funky flavor is a new and exciting addition to my cooking.

You mentioned the gym. Being busy at Forsythia, are you still getting as much of a chance to work out, play guitar, ride the motorcycle?

I feel good hitting my late 30’s now. I have to pace myself and watch my diet – more of making sure I eat – to keep up with the hours, but over-all I am great. Full blown coffee drinker now. Still working out as much as I can, still jamming to Metallica and Sabbath songs. Almost every night after work when I get home, I try to play a little bit to wind down. And yes, still riding the Triumph Cafe Racer around town much as I can. I’ve also been into modern art a lot more lately and traveling much as I can. I traveled to Los Angeles, Maine, and Montreal last year. Hopefully heading to Italy in January if we can find some decent priced plane tickets.

What other events are you and your crew planning for Forsythia?

From a block party at Forin Coffee in November, to changing up our happy hour menu to have a more lively and small plate feel with addition of short rib and smoked gouda tartine, crispy pig tails, few kinds of oysters with variety of winter citrus, and fried Hamachi collars, our overall goal is to have fun and bring excitement to French food.

For information and tickets to FringeFEAST, visit fringearts.com/event/fringefeast