When Chef Jesus Fernandez talks about putting love into his food, you can taste it with every bite.
The 37-year-old, Puebla, Mexico native is a veteran in the kitchen and owner of Palenque in the Italian Market.
“Everything here, I do by hand, and with passion,” says Fernandez.
One of the first things that you notice when dining at Palenque, at 908 Washington Avenue, is how radically different its flavor profiles are from traditional Mexican fare. The notes are brighter and bolder on everything, from its freshly hand-crafted mole sauce to its generous, juicy portions of long marinated carnitas and bistec. Everything at Palenque — from its quesadillas and tacos to its sauces and fresh guacamole — is divine.
Make no mistake, however. Though Fernandez is a first time owner with Palenque, his dreams are big and he is already thinking beyond the Italian Market.
“Expansion is key — that is something that I learned from some of the other chefs and owners with whom I have worked in this city,” said Fernandez, pointing toward the likes of Joe Volpe (restaurants under the Cescaphe umbrella) and Teddy Sourias (BRU Craft & Wurst, Blume Burger and Sueño).
“I learned with Joe, Teddy and during my time at La Veranda on Penn’s Landing how to cook and design the most diverse array of international menus and tastes, starting with Italian food,” said Fernandez with pride of his 14 years in the Philadelphia restaurant business. “This city has it all, and I have a passion for it all.”
Watching Philadelphia’s restaurant owners open different, multiple venues, Fernandez knew that is what he wanted to do. Within the last decade, the chef began diligently planning his next moves, working with his friends at the Italian Market’s Mole Poblano, before finding his home at Palenque.
“I wanted to do something different. My goal was to change its flavors because much of the Mexican food that we eat in Philly is street food. I wanted to go big, make everything of my own,” Fernandez explains. “Starting with my mole sauce. Most restaurants buy their mole sauce from Mexico or a company in New Jersey, but I make my own from scratch. And it is hard to make – there are a lot of ingredients – but making it fresh each time is worth it. It gives everything a nice touch.”
The rarity of Fernandez’s superior ingredients and flavor profiles beyond the usual is immediately apparent in every bite. Fernandez says Palenque will offer regularly scheduled specials and quarterly, seasonal menu changes.
“Every month will have new dishes. I’m working now on a surf-and-turf on a stone, starting with chiles, whose flavors will change with every bite.
“I have put my life and passion into each mouthful, each creation at Palenque. So much time and love goes into everything that I do here.”
