On a bitterly cold night in February, Chef Tonii Hicks was busy heating up Jose Garces’ Volver as the restaurant’s newest Chef-in-Residency—until March 19—with a magnificent menu of radical, unique North African-inspired dishes.
Appetizers such as Hicks’ zesty, downhome Salmon Cake topped with tomato chutney and lemon aioli and her subtly spiced Salt & Pepper Shrimp Tostada with crispy wonton and duck fat caramel; rich meaty entrees such as tender Lamb Chops with black eye peas and chimichurri, along with a surprising take on risotto with ham and lima beans; even the tenderest churros ever tasted with peanut butter caramel and toasted coconut – exciting flavors all.
Metro spoke with Hicks to learn more.
How does your Volver menu present your personality, life and goals?
The menu I designed for Volver represents my journey right now — it is not meant to represent any single thing in my life — but in fact all of the things about me and my personality… and where I have been and where I am going. There’s inspiration in there from the countries and cultures I am studying; some of my favorite ingredients; things that I love to eat; flavor profiles I am perfecting.
Where are you from and how and why did you get to cooking in first place?
I grew up in Francisville and currently live in Overbrook. In high school, I was in a culinary program and fell in love with cooking. I decided it wasn’t something to just study – it would become a life-long passion. Teacher Patrick Perti at Swenson Arts and Tech High School guided and encouraged me, kept pushing me to keep doing better, enter competitions and to keep perfecting my skills. He wanted me to look at culinary science, lead businesses, become a community leader and aim bigger.
What was your first-ever favorite dish to cook and why?
Pizza pretzel — it was a job I had working at my family’s water ice stand. It was simple and brought people joy. That really brings back great memories. The Cherry Water Ice with Candied cherries and pretzel pieces on my Volver menu is a tribute to Philly, that good energy and a throwback to my start and earlier times.
What can you tell us regarding your take on the diversity of overall concepts, specific ideas and flavors for what it is you do? And why do elements of North Africa sneak in here?
Everything I do is inspired by what I cook — my favorite shows, my fashion, my downtime — all revolves around my cooking. In studying food science, flavor is first in my mind. Anything I do should taste as good as it looks — flavors first, everything else follows. For Volver, I wanted to present some dishes inspired by North African cuisine as there is a lot of warm spices — it’s cold out there — and wanted to add some heat to our winter.
How do you know Chef Jose Garces? What is your vibe about him?
I met him at the James Beard Fellow Dinner with Visit Philly. I think he is a great guy, a genuine person that wants to help me and other rising chefs, and a talented chef and business owner. The Chefs-in-Residency Program lets me tap into a new audience, gives me a larger voice and lets me shine on a new stage – and it compliments other projects I have in the works. It also lets me bring attention to not only where I have been, but my grand vision my new commissary building in West Philly.
Let’s talk about the genesis of the meal you have going at Volver. The lamb chops with the black eye peas and the salmon cake in particular? I would be remiss if I didn’t ask what was behind putting lima beans and ham in the risotto?
Something like ham hock risotto would not normally be found on fine dining menus. I want to elevate dishes and diversity menus — and make everyone rethink what a white tablecloth experience and menu is all about. Nothing should ever be assumed and nothing is off the table, and this gives us a chance to elevate dishes and create surprise on the menu.
What does this menu signify?
I call myself a story teller — not just a chef. I am a young woman growing up in the city with different cultures, experiences and people — and I try to embody that journey and inspiration in what I cook each and every day.
