Stéphane Rolland returns to Paris catwalk with bold silhouettes

PARIS – FrenchStéphane Rolland returned to the runway on Tuesday for the first time since the coronavirus pandemic began, offering an array of feminine draped dresses and billowing cloud-like gowns at Paris Fashion Week.

After almost two years, the designer Stéphane Rolland said he felt it was time to get back to an in-person show for his new couture collection.

“We designed the collection to be displayed on a runway — if there were any last minute problems, we could always change course,” the French designer told Reuters before the show.

Held in the Palais de Chaillot, at a stone’s throw from the Eiffel tower, the spring-summer 2022 presentation opened to the beat of Aretha Franklin and a series of fluid kaftans made of satin crepe in black and ivory tones.

Rolland’s muse, the Spanish model Nieves Alvarez, strode down the catwalk in a hooded golden metallic blazer paired with wide pants in white wool.

The label, known for its sculptural outfits, slightly refined its designs but silhouettes remained bold and striking.

“I have the impression that with what we have gone through, it was necessary to turn a page — without turning my back on what I had done before,” Rolland said.

“I want to highlight the body of a free woman differently – to project a desirable look, and play with transparency in a subtle manner, rather than a slightly vulgar style. It’s about sensuality, not sexuality.”

Tailored dresses, a long brown tunic, draped gowns plunging in the back or front alternated on the catwalk while other models paraded in transparent chiffon dresses.

Alvarez closed the show in a black velvet and satin ballgown and a huge emerald necklace.

Before the presentation, Rolland paid homage to Thierry Mugler with a recorded message honoring the designer who died on Sunday.